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“The eternity of Rome, the spirituality of Rome, the celestial Rome” – Kim Jones

Traversing the strata of Roman temporality, from its ancient past to its imagined future, for Spring 2022 Kim Jones presents a Fendi Couture collection that draws upon fantasy and reality to land in an otherworldly present.

Here, the historic codes of the city, its statuesque marbles and ecclesiastical aesthetics, are explored within a futuristic framework. “When you walk down the street in Rome, you are constantly moving back and forth in time,” explains Kim Jones. “Where we work feels very modern, but you pass monuments on the way there. There’s a total timelessness to the city: a historic vein which runs through it, but also a movement that is projecting forwards.”

Now, descending from the heavens, an army of empresses whose divine purity is imbued with celestial power. Lavish craftsmanship is applied to their sci-fi silhouettes; elsewhere, ceremonial asceticism overlaid with astral fantasy. Fluid fabrics are draped atop shimmering bodies; baguette beads luminous with light; hand-embroidered tights appearing as a second skin. These are unearthly figures charged with transcendent energy. “Rome has a certain spirituality as a city,” notes Jones. “Not necessarily just something religious, but something present in the layers of its history.”

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Colección de Alta Costura Primavera 2022 de Fendi 

“La eternidad de Roma, la espiritualidad de Roma, la Roma celestial” – Kim Jones

Para la primavera del 2022, Kim Jones presenta una colección de alta costura basada en la fantasía y la realidad de otro mundo, donde recorre la temporalidad romana desde su pasado antiguo hasta su futuro imaginado.

En el desfile se explora un marco futurista, al apreciarse los códigos históricos de la ciudad, tales como sus mármoles escultóricos y su estética eclesiástica. “Cuando caminas por la calle en Roma, te mueves constantemente hacia adelante y hacia atrás en el tiempo”, explica Kim Jones. “Donde trabajamos se siente muy moderno, pero recorres monumentos en el camino. Hay una atemporalidad total en la ciudad: una franja histórica que la atraviesa, pero también un movimiento que se proyecta hacia adelante”.

Fendi nos presenta un ejército de emperatrices cuya pureza divina está impregnada de poder celestial, donde se luce una colección que desciende de los cielos. La artesanía lujosa se aplica a sus siluetas de ciencia ficción, y otras veces, el ascetismo ceremonial se superpone con la fantasía astral. Las telas fluidas se cubren sobre cuerpos resplandecientes, mientras que aparecen como una segunda piel, las perlas de baguette luminosas con luz y las medias bordadas a mano. Estas son figuras sobrenaturales cargadas de energía trascendente. “Roma tiene una cierta espiritualidad como ciudad”, señala Jones. “No necesariamente algo religioso, sino algo presente en las capas de su historia”.

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Fendi Couture Spring 2022
Photo Credit by Fendi

Fendi Couture Spring 2022
Photo Credit by Fendi

Fendi Couture Spring 2022
Photo Credit by Fendi

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Drawing upon time-honored techniques alongside modern craftsmanship, the collection materially reflects that sentiment, finding harmonies between past and present. The ghostly shadows of opulent fabrics, photographed and distorted, are printed atop duchesse silk and organza and illuminated with traditional beading and mother of pearl, while the classical statues located outside of Fendi’s Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana are hand-painted in dramatic chiaroscuro onto sheared mink and velvet.

Heat-molded leathers, embroidered with micro sequins, mink and pearls, echo Corinthian reliefs; exposed underpinnings reveal the very essence of couture: its construction. The archeological remnants of ancient civilizations are unearthed: volcanic stone and hematite inset into bags; natural crystal geodes and amethyst shooting from jewellery.

The visual language of power is embedded throughout, from warrior like armour, now crafted in Persian lamb and leather, to the imperial majesty of floor-sweeping trains. After all, says Jones, “that’s what my vision for Fendi is all about: celebrating the power of women.”

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La colección refleja una armonía entre el pasado y el presente, materializando el sentimiento de técnicas incorporadas en el tiempo junto con la artesanía moderna. Las sombras fantasmales de telas abundantes, fotografiadas y distorsionadas, están impresas sobre seda y organza, iluminadas con joyas tradicionales y nácar. Mientras las estatuas clásicas ubicadas fuera del Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana de Fendi, están pintadas a mano en dramáticos claroscuros sobre visón esquilado y terciopelo. Las pieles diseñadas hacen eco a relieves corintios, cargados con micro lentejuelas, visón y perlas.

La esencia de la alta costura se revela con los principios básicos de su construcción, al tiempo que las bolsas desentierran los restos arqueológicos de las civilizaciones antiguas, presentando piedra volcánica y hematita incrustradas, geodas de cristal natural y amatista de joyas. 

El lenguaje visual del poder está incorporado en todas partes, desde la armadura de guerrero, ahora confeccionada en cordero persa y cuero, como la majestuosidad imperial de los vestidos largos hasta el suelo. Después de todo, dice Jones, “de eso se trata mi visión de Fendi: celebrar el poder de las mujeres”.

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Fendi Couture Spring 2022
Photo Credit by Fendi

Fendi Couture Spring 2022
Photo Credit by Fendi

Fendi Couture Spring 2022
Photo Credit by Fendi

Fendi Couture Spring 2022
Photo Credit by Fendi

Fendi Couture Spring 2022
Photo Credit by Fendi

Fendi Couture Spring 2022
Photo Credit by Fendi

Fendi Couture Spring 2022
Photo Credit by Fendi

Fendi Couture Spring 2022
Photo Credit by Fendi

Fendi Couture Spring 2022
Photo Credit by Fendi

Fendi Couture Spring 2022
Photo Credit by Fendi

Fendi Couture Spring 2022
Photo Credit by Fendi

Influencers atendiendo @FENDI COUTURE SS22 Fashion Show

PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 27: Bryan Boy attends the Fendi Couture fashion show on January 27, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)

PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 27: Amelie Zilber attends the Fendi Couture fashion show on January 27, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)

PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 27: Miss Fame attends the Fendi Couture fashion show on January 27, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)

PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 27: Valentina Ferragni attends the Fendi Couture fashion show on January 27, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)

PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 27: Gabrielle Caunesil Pozzoli attends the Fendi Couture fashion show on January 27, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pietro S. D’Aprano/Getty Images for Fendi)

PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 27: Jessica Wang attends the Fendi Couture fashion show on January 27, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pietro S. D’Aprano/Getty Images for Fendi)

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